We follow Ernest Giles back to the Lasseter Highway. The ranges of King Canyon follow us and I can’t help but wonder: could there be more spectacular valleys, that still want to be discovered?
The highway veers south and finally west again towards Curtain Springs. The country turns into flats with salt lakes and sand dunes, few table top mountains in the very distance. I get excited, expecting to see Ayers Rocks, but it is “just” Mt Connor amongst the desert she oaks.
Uluru, here we come
To catch glimpses of Uluru and Kata Tjuta we need to get much closer. With forty kilometres to Yulara, the heart of Australia is finally within our reach. Pulling us like a magnet. And finally, Uluru appears on the horizon. I am excited to keep to driving till we reach the rock. But we better organise our camp sites first as there has been a hiccup with the online bookings (fortunately sorted soon). People are friendly. I see copies of our Newman friend Jindi on every corner: helpful, well spoken, with gorgeous smiles. The caravan park at Yulara is nice too. And clean. We set up camp close to a little orchard. Loving the space, not crowded and heaps of corners for Olli to snoop around. A sand dune behind us offers beaut views of the two rocks. At sunrise and sunset it attracts a pilgrimage of people toasting the views.
To finish off the day, we drive the last 30 kilometres to the rock and embark on a short hike into Kantju Gorge. Uluru captivates me. The first connection with the rock is powerful. I want to dance, sing, hummm. Want to be alone with him, throw myself at him. Feels like home. Is this what I have been gravitating too in this life? Sounds cheesy, right? Especially as a Westerner - with no genetic connection to Australia or Aboriginality.
It is too late in the afternoon for the 3.5 hrs round hike, so we do the short Mala Walk, marvel at rock paintings, have a look at the caves and end up at one of the water holes at the rocks base. On the way we find caves for women and other for old men, apparently making sure, kids are not walking past them into peril when men’s business is in progress further along the base of the hill.
In places the base is surprisingly forested. I notice the bark like surface of the rock, mirroring its surrounds. From a distance it looks machined, close by more like a bad case of scaly dermatitis. Noticeable is as well that there are hardly any cracks. Hence neither grasses or bushes can get hold on the rock. The higher up you look, the smoother the surface appears. Like a baby’s bottom. There are boulders strewn around the place. No idea where they came from. Wouldn’t you expect signs of broken bits or rock slides from further up?
Rain is the only event that leaves marks on the rock, like waterfalls I have been told, or smudged mascara. Some of them appear randomly on the side, rather than tumbling from the top of the mountain. No apparent source. Uluru is indeed mysterious.
It is busy with people and sad to notice a lot of screeching, loud argueing and even having business conversations on the phone. And then there is jogging and biking around the rock. I understand that this is a must-see destination. However, I am missing a good lot of respect and perhaps mindfulness in its presence. Good to see that at least climbing Uluru has been taken off the activities list.
The cultural centre is a pretty spiritual place too. The building is exciting with curved, meandering walls. Entering, means you have to leave the straight path and allow yourself to be guided to its centre through swirls, nooks and crannies. At times it winds back asking for reflection. According to lore, the building is shaped like a serpent coiled up on itself. The middle is a shady court yard, a meeting place with a couple of art spaces. One of them serves as a gallery / shop for artists from all the central deserts. The other one focusses on local Mutitjulu paintings and their genesis. This one is a non-for-profit organisation. It pays the artists directly, and diverts a portion of each sale to the community for overarching projects. I had the chance to talk to one of the curators. She lives with the community. She introduces me to the story of Reggie Uluru who was rejected by his clan as a baby - not fit to survive. Against all odds, and with the help of his older sister, he not only made it to adulthood, but is now a well-known traditional owner and respected elder. Reggie took part in the official hand back of Uluru by the Australian Federal Government in 1985 (worth reading “I am Uluru: A Family's Story” by Jen Cowley - if you can get hold of a copy).
I am mesmerised by “Kungkarangkalpa”, a painting by Daisy Walkabout depicting the story of the Seven Sisters. The star constellation on Orion’s Belt otherwise known as Pleiades is an important part of aboriginal Dreamtime stories all over Australia. Daisy uses a vibrant palette incorporating lots of aquas and blues, a nod to her coastal heritage, pinning the girls onto the canvas as they try to escape the trickster Wati Niru (Orion). It is stunningly beautiful. It is lovely meeting people that are passionate about this thriving desert culture and eagerly sharing inside stories to some of the most amazing artistic expressions. Wow!
Living in the community is not without its challenges though, she says. Despite being dry, meaning no alcohol is allowed, domestic violence is still an issue. But they seem to be heading in the right direction. She is privileged to be living here, challenged to unlearn western biases and preconceptions. You will find her sitting close to the local ladies, who will share knowledge when they feels it is the right time. It’s a concept I read about a lot recently: You may ask as much as you want, answers will come to you when you are quiet and the elders feel that you are ready for the next story. I can really see myself working here. It has heart & soul written all over it. Maybe in another life…
We decide to capture the sunset at Uluru. It is getting cold fast. The colours are magnificent. With the changing light, the rock seems to radiate from the inside out. The clouds are magnificent, directing the fading rays on the bush and then on monolith in an ever changing rhythm. Like a living being. Breathing. Sorry for the plethora of photos attached. I am excited, can you tell?
Kata Tjuta , Valley of the Winds
The first zero degree night. Trying to pee! The body tries to desperately hold in the heat while releasing access fluids. This internal fight does not leave any energy to the top parts of the body. I nearly faint. Important to stabilise oneself against the wall or better sit down, briefly, as one does not want to freeze to the toilet seat.
The day climbs up to 22 degrees. Without wind, it is quite pleasant and ideal for the hike into the Valley of the Wind. Superb! 3.5 hours.
It is a very different experience. Kata Tjuta feels welcoming, nearly embracing. Different to the rock, you are allowed to enter the “Olga’s”. There is a distinctly female quality about it. The tops are off limits, the rock faces are steep, difficult to climb . And there are many of them, hence its translation: “Many Heads”.
Compared to Uluru this is a different place. Ayers Rock appears to have a male energy. It’s allows you to approach it’s perimeter, and that’s where it stops. Kata Tjuta is female it invites you in: its valleys, and the spaces between the rocks. Like chalk and cheese. Geologically, Kata Tjuta is known as a “conglomerock”, means it is made of lots of smooth boulders concreted together, like rocks in a river bed.
The Valley of the Winds leads into a steep canyon with a rise in the distance. The views from up there are spectacular. The cliffs frame the valley behind artfully. Hiking and climbing through the chasm is as stunning as challenging, with surprising views around every corner. Clean air, crystal clear springs, bushes, small trees. We share the space with budgies and finches and hundreds of beautiful flowers and plants. It is truly a Garden Eden. Off the second lookout the trail snakes into flat bushland with spectacular panoramas. You could think you are on a different planet and not in the middle of the desert.
The crowd is different too: hardly any kids, no people on mobile phones, no conversations that are out of place. Admittedly, the first section of the treck is busy. And then the number dries up and you can be all by yourself surrounded by beauty. The rocks are steep. Wildflowers. Scented air. I can’t get enough of this.
The uneven ground proves to be too much for my ankle. It hurts when following down steep gradients. Once the ankle hurts, the knee plays up, and next it puts the whole system out of balance. I have to be gentle with myself. This old fart will need to dig out his braces again.
Last night we had a drizzle of rain: raced out of our beds at a really curious time, securing the kitchen from “the down pour”. Luckily, I took the clothes off the line earlier. In the morning there is no evidence of any rain not even any clouds. Could this have been just an imagination? On the bright side, it is warm with a balmy 9° to start with.
We are taking it easy. My ankle still hurts, so I am starting slow, just walking the dog.
Only now I get to the appreciate how big this campground really is. It seems to go on forever, but doesn't feel crowded. We are taking an easy track beyond the fence line through soft sandy ridges. There are hummingbird flowers and fragrant Grevillea‘s. The birds are chirping. It is magnificent.
All-in-all, I am very impressed with Yulara Resort. It is a beautiful set up in the middle of the desert, between rolling sand dunes. Yes, it is a little bit away from Ayers Rock but it appears to be a respectful distance. We have a dune behind our camp from where we can see the rocks in the morning light quite spectacularly.
I am impressed with the people that are working at the resort too. Statistics state that the amount of aboriginal employees is unusually high.Yulara has partnered with the aboriginal land counsel and created an employment and training schemes for indigenous youth. The training café around the corner is the only one where the service is lacking a little bit. Besides that, everyone is very courteous, friendly and helpful, a beautiful place to be. A rare combination, considering the size of this enterprise. And a great kick off for indigenous people looking for employment beyond.
Here is a quick talk about campground wars. This is NOT particular to Yulara, by the way, but certainly to paid camping sites.
It is important to claim your space. Once set up and marked properly by means of peeing into each corner, don’t let anyone else walk intrude.
Shower your neighbour's camp in road dust. Showing off your racing skills is a sign of uninhibited manliness!
Claim all washing machines by doing a months worth of washing at the same time. A brilliant way to do this is by distributing ten pieces of clothing over five or so machines.
A great way to make friends is to ignore any lineup of bags or baskets of dirty linen. This is always a conversation starter.
Continue on to the clothes line. If you peg your towels strategically, no one else should be able to contaminate your designer wear with their cheap shop garb. Corner peeing manifests your claim.
Hot water is scarce - use up as much as YOU can. Here is your mantra: shower for an hour.
Entertain the neighbours through public display of affection. Some deep throat kissing can be entertaining. And educational for the camp kids.
Never admit that you have spare coins for the laundry, or matches, or fire starters. Ok, you may share one or the other item, but toilet paper is where the fun truly stops!
Compare travel notes. Yours are always better, louder, more spectacular, and your co-campers will appreciate that.
Compare the size of your trailer or anything else that may make your neighbours jealous. And while at it, brag about the fuel consumption of your rigg. More is always better.
In line with the recommendations above, I treat Paul to a helicopter ride for his upcoming birthday. 35 minutes Kata Tjuta and Uluru. The views are magnificent. Our pilot is a young lady. She introduces us to the history of the region, its geology, the country, the different people that live here. Her commentary itself is worth it. Fascinating, how different helicopter flights can be. The outstanding feature at the Bungle Bungles was the photos, here it’s the stories. The only thing that could have topped it would have been flying without doors. Dead serious!
We celebrate the flight with a coffee in town and check out Yulara’s “Gallery of Central Australia”, GoCA. It s the first time that we notice the distinctly different styles of individual indigenous groups. Some of the more contemporary ones are as vibrant as pop art. There is some great stuff ranging from $700 to $7,000. And then I look at the ladies in the park, less than 100 metres away, and wonder how much of their works they sell, dotting the same pictures over and over again, 365 times a year. How do you tell the difference between good and great, between commercially produced and unique, between randomness and works with deep thought and meaning? What makes a Mona Lisa special? I do appreciate the accuracy and eye for detail in some. But besides that my only guide is a very personal like or dislike. Food for thought…
Don’t know about you, but sometimes you stumble over opportunities that are too good not to take advantage of. By accident, we end up at one of the resort’s very enjoyable bush tucker demonstrations. Freddy is our indigenous guide, a black queen trapped inside. He takes immense delight in cooking but can’t admit that. It’s women’s business. We are introduced to a special seed for making bread. Beware of a similar looking variety which smells like chocolate and brings on the chocolate as he says, meaning it works as a laxative. “If not sure, try both. You will know after a very short time”. Witchety grubs are another big thing in this region, in popularity as well as in size. The larva of the large moth is easily dug up from the base of the Witchery Bush. A nutritious, healthy snack either raw or prepared on a hot stone. A subtle undertone tells me that Freddy likes to give this one a miss.
His offsider is the personified Swedish Chef: blond, blue eyed and as chaotic as hilarious. He makes a big mess putting together the bush version of the popular short bread biscuits. In they go into the invisible oven, and five minutes later: presto! Freshly baked and surprisingly tasty fresh wattle seed biscuits! Beautifully done. Laughed a lot. Strongly recommend! And a great teaser for more coffee…
Tonight we are visiting the “Fields of Light”, an art installation of a different kind. 50,000 LED lights have been spread over two acres, connected with a ridiculous amount of optic fibre. Enough to run a strip from here to Alice Springs. It’s all solar powered and comes to life at dusk. We get treated to canapés and drinks while the sun is dipping over Kata Tjuta. As it gets darker, the field lights up. So beautiful. I would’ve never thought that something like this could be possible (but then again, some Christmas light displays might challenge this). From our vantage point it is already magnificent. How much better it must be from within, I think, as I stumble down the dune a tad tipsy. Thanks god, for phone torches, otherwise I would have never made it down that damn slope. And then we are wandering through the field of lights, changing colours as we go. Thousands of them. They pulsate, breathe, live. From eye height you get a sense of its vastness. Play lizard and the knee high installation turns into a very different, dreamlike experience. Like in the movie Avatar. Loving and gentle. At the same time stunningly outlandish and beautiful.
Despite all the people, it does not feel crowded. We are just shadows amongst something much bigger. Maybe that is what the artist had in mind. I manage to take a few photos. The stars make it into some of them. I can’t really believe what I am seeing. The highlight of the day! Would do it again in a heart beat. What a trip!
Unfortunately, we have to leave. One last time, the three of us check out the rocks while crossing through the national park and then follow the Docker River Road towards the setting sun.
Track Notes
From Roadhouse to Roadhouse
Kings Creek Station
To Yulara Resort 316 km - 195.9 c/L
From Camp to Camp
Kings Creek Station (Lat -24.4042 / Lng 141.8189)
To Ayers Rock Campground (Lat -25.2387 / Lng 130.9901) 265 km
Links worth noting
Tourism NT (https://northernterritory.com), Curtin Springs / Mt Connor (https://www.curtinsprings.com), Ayers Rock Resort including Field of Light (https://www.ayersrockresort.com.au), Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park including Kanji Gorge, Mala Walk, Valley of the Winds (https://parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/), Gallery of Central Australia / GoCA (https://gocadigital.org), Ayers Rock Helicopter Tours (https://phs.com.au/tours/uluru-kata-tjuta/)
Cool music and reads to keep you occupied
“I am Uluru: A Family's Story” by Jen Cowley
"Mijiyanga" and "Water Ceremony" by Ngulmia, the perfect, gritty fusion of Indigenous and Western tunes
Things worth noting
Our overnight stays are chosen because they are dog friendly. In case of commercial caravan parks, be aware, that dogs cannot be left unaccompanied at the park at any time.
When camping off-grid, be aware that poison bait is used in most parts of the Outback to control the number of wild dogs. A dog that has ingested the deadly 1070 bait may be salvaged by inducing vomiting immediately. However, it is best to use a muzzle to prevent poisoning in the first instance.
The best time to visit the red center is Australia’s winter. Days can be in their low twenties. Expect frost as soon as the sun sets. If hiring is your thing, prepare for some early starts during autumn and spring. Walking trails get closed off at temperatures beyond 30 degrees.
Permits are required for few parks in the Northern Territory, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is one of them. Domestic animals are generally off limits. Some parks, such as Watarrka, allow to have a dog in the car park while exploring the attractions. Make sure there is shade and always sufficient water.
Many of Central Australia’s national parks, offer free guided tours. For information about places, days and times google “Territory Parks Alive”.
Handy Helpers
Hema Australian Road & 4WD Atlas
WikiCamps
FuelMap Australia
GoogleMaps
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