600km North. Coastal. Out of the wind. Sounds tempting!
With Labour Day on the horizon, it’s gonna be a busy weekend at our caravan park. The first squealers arrive, reason enough to take off. The trip north takes us via the Mingenew Bakery and then the Coalseam Conservation Reserve, our first stop. It is well known for its carpets of wild flowers. Unfortunately, we are a tad late for that but still impressed by the scenic gorge, carved out by the Greenough River. A bit like in a Wild West movie. The view from the to top of the cliff is brilliant. And so is the winding trek through the reserve. The park is strictly off limits for dogs, so on we go.
To Tenindewa, just north of Devil’s Creek. It is a lovely free camp we got to know a couple of years ago: imagine gentle hills, overlooking a handsome salt lake glistening in the sun. The temperatures are balmy, the flies not. Regardless, dog and I take off for an afternoon stroll exploring the lake’s salty shores. Challenging to avoid breaking into the mud. More often than not, the warm slush squeezes through the toes. Few shallow puddles are enough, to wash it off. Where they more extensive, I would seriously consider a full muddy mud bath. Instead we hop from puddle to puddle. Surreal! And Serene. Back at camp, the flies force us inside the camper. Time for a game of Yahtzee and pear cider. As the sun retires, so do the insects. And with the camp fire crackling the world is glorious again. Under the Southern Cross. And a billion other stars. Just great!
We are saddled, before the peskies are out. Sun is just rising as Max (short for Isuzu MUX) wakes with a subtle shudder and slowly takes us into the Chapman Valley. The upper reaches are mostly grain fields. Millions of hectares of them. Monotony draped gently over undulating hills. If you want to get lost, this is the place. The lower reaches are definitely the more picturesque. And apparently quite touristy. Just not this long weekend. It’s the last Hurrah of summer school holidays. Places are either closed, shut down for good, or on a quick holiday themselves. We skipped breakfast, confident we would find sustenance along the way. Instead, it’s just the odometer that’s getting fatter. Finally our stomachs decide to stop at Horrocks Beach with its seriously cute community store. Breakfast is now “lupper”, like brunch, just much later. And after a beach walk, it is time for a some shut-eye. Good old Horrocks!!!
A decent 4WD is a must to explore the rugged coast and the vast, isolated National Parks of François Person and Dirk Hartoog. The area is a serious contender for the title Heat Stroke & Sunburn Hell: a land full wild, smelly blokes with big hats and unkempt beards. In fishing rashers that are far too clingy and frail shorts. But who cares. As long as there is fuel, drink and bait, she’ll be right.
The morning, we takle the remaining 400k’s. The Great North West Coastal Highway is seriously drab, despite its name. Billabong and the Overlander Roadhouse are the only sad highlights! Turning off at Hamlin Pools onto the 353, and the three of us are getting seriously excited. This last 150 km to Denham and Monkey Mia are new to us and that is always exciting. The road follows a long peninsula, cradled by Henrí Freycinet Harbour on one, and Hamlin Pools, later Shark Bay on the other side. The region is defined by its long, deep red dunes, dotted with low shrubs and clumps of spinifex. And in between sad pans, glistening silver in the heat. Relentless wind pushes the sand along filling eyes and mouth with grit. Every now and then glimpses of the ocean call out to the desolate traveller. If you are looking for isolated bays and lonely stretches of beach, looking for a place to sink a line and belch into the relentless sun, then this is yours, all the way up to Cape Peron.
Monkey Mia marks the end of the bitumen with the RAC Resort the reason d’être. No monkeys here. Just professional money napping. Admittedly, the bathtub like, ocean is gorgeous. Shallow. No waves. A safe spot to dump kids and dogs.
We set up camp under a tiny tree. The ground is boiling hot. Certainly not an area to walk barefoot. And it is rock hard. Driving pegs into the ground is an absolute nightmare. A jackhammer would be the tool of choice. Damn, left that one at home! These days, we travel with a rattle gun. Monkey Mia might have something to do with our decision to buy one. Instead, we use a borrowed crow bar to pry a whole into the ground, fill it with water and after a while drive our pegs into the ground. After this exercise a lot end up as bin fodder. Good we have spare ones and we persist. The winds pick up in the afternoon, howling, ripping and slapping any unsecured structures. Many a tent blows away. Needless to say, there is no cooking in gale force winds. I am thankful for the resort’s large camp kitchens. This is where you find us every night.
So, why does one do this? Dolphins: Monkey Mia has a reputation for these mammals. Visiting regularly. Grabbing a snack from keen resort guests. Carefully orchestrated by the rangers. About 50 to 100 tourists. To a handful of dolphins. At most. And even fewer fish to dish out. One does not want to domesticate them. At the moment, the dolphins seem to be interested elsewhere. The last few days they made themselves scarce. There are probably more productive fishing grounds away from the flow of tourists.
Admittedly, when the dolphins move in, unscheduled, ogling unsuspecting ocean frolickers, that’s like paradise. Everything comes to a standstill. Except for these sociable creature. Swimmers freeze mid-stroke. Beach combers gather along the water, cameras ready (left mine at the camp). You never know what the gregarious animals are up to. Could even be sharks in disguise. Anyway, I am finding myself a spot in the wet sand watching for what appears to be eternity. About twelve family members meander around the swimmers, dive between them, and look them unabashedly. Except for their breathing, it is quiet. Do they sign to each other underwater? Maybe conspire? Or is this their Sunday trip to the zoo: looking at people?!? I seriously wonder who is watching whom.
Finally, Olli and I take the beach back to camp. Him dog paddling, me doing the emu, stalking long-leggedly through the shallows. Scaring sting rays, whiting and millions of other tiny fish into to a mad frenzy. Surreal! While the waters are balmy, the sand is not. At 40 degrees in the sun, the ground is a scorcher. Eventually, the two of us dash madly across the sand to get back home.
As I can’t stay away from the water, I revisit again, armed with reef shoes and snorkelling gear. This time avoiding blisters. Swimming past some pelicans, I follow the beach and find myself surrounded by hundreds of tiny silvery fish. I am the eye of a silver, aquatic cyclone. Every now and then, they change direction, simultaneously. Dizzying. A few colourful ones use me as a shelter. I find them between my legs, under my arm pits and under my hands. The moment I move, they change position. An endless game of hide and seek. Wow! This is truly paradise
While dolphins may be sparse, local emus are certainly not. They browse the van park during the day. With their mischievous offsprings. Camping utensils are investigated, then tossed aside. Food and rubbish containers marauded. They shit everywhere. And no respect for the authorities aka, visiting dogs. Emu chicks seem to know exactly how long their leads are. They know as well that they cannot be charged with public nuisance, molestation and stealing. Instead of getting charged, they end up with a slap on the wrist. Such is life if you are indigenous. And that’s what they do. Extremely well. Instead of getting charged, they end up with a slap on the wrist. Such is life if you are indigenous. No matter how much the authorities bark, ultimately, they are the ones getting chased by the mega chickens. At Monkey Mia Resort, it is the wrong ones that are in the lead.
Because of the heat, I enjoy my strolls early morning and late in the evening. During that time, the coast line is particularly stunning, and the rays dancing on the ocean sheer bliss. Outside the resort, it is truly otherworldly. Blood-red dunes, offset by blue-grey bushes and grasses. From time to time we discover traces of lizards and birds looking for scraps. No-one else. In the distance, views of the insane waters of Shark Bay (no sharks here, despite its name). A head peeks out of a nearby bush. An emu man, with his cute little chicks. He is not impressed being rudely disturbed. Menacing he charges at us, head erect, the feathers on his neck up in an emu-kind-of, threatening way. Like a jouster. As cute as it is when emus run, with their tails bobbing around, this is different. I do hope Olli and I have a chance in outrunning him, but we better give chase! Needles to say, no. pics of this encounter!
Next day, we are exploring the West coast. Outside Denham, there is the aptly named Little Lagoon. It is early enough, and we dare a stroll in its beautiful, shallow water. A kite surfer is already circling the shore. Fabulous! Dog is excited. He just hops through the shallows like no good. I know how this one ends. When he is that exited. Everything is awesome, every wave, every ray bouncing off it. As he chases them, I chase after him. Flip flops, camera and all. Otherwise, god knows where he ends up. Been there. In the end I get him to turn around. Like “what do you want? I am having a great time!” “So do I”, I croak, totally wasted. Left the lead in the car. Double damn! So, here we are, my hand on his collar, like a humpback dragging him back to the car, now a spec on the distant horizon. Great fun.
Different to Monkey Mia, Denham itself is a darling town with a harbour, shops, cafés, and restaurants. There’s even a bakery. Recently, we discovered a liking for Long Johns, a bar shaped doughnut, filled with cream and jam. If done freshly, they are absolutely delicious, Guess, what we are having on the beach!
Afterwards, we check out the Shark Bay Wold Heritage Discovery Centre. It showcases the significance and history of the Shark Bay region. The centre’s displays, soundscapes, historical and contemporary film footage, interactive multimedia and objects of rare scientific and historical significance take you on the most amazing journey around this extraordinary place.
So, why is Shark Bay so special? The southern bay is home to ancient stromatolites. In ancient times, they created the base of nearly all life as we know: breathable oxygen. In those days it would have been a digestive byproduct. Listening in to early conversations you may have heard something like: “Did you just fart? One day, you are going to kill us all with your gasses!” Besides that, Shark Bay has one of the vastest meadows of seagrass in Australia waters, harbouring an abundance of marine life such as dugongs, dolphins, turtles, whales, manta rays, and numerous species of fish and yes, sharks too. But despite its biological, cultural and historical significance, the harsh environment is nowadays mostly left to its own devices. Permanent settlements are few. Industries are null and void despite a tiny bit of salt harvesting and of course tourism. Most of this plays out in its vast national parks, accessible only to the hardest type of man and equipment. Ill-prepared ones still perish even today. Impossible to escape. Where the deep red sands and cliffs of the desert meet a turquoise ocean, filled to the brim with life, nature is still wild and mostly untamed!!!
The next episode takes us into the hills west of Perth. It's about River Dreaming, Possum Magic and some pretty wild gnomes. You don’t want to miss this! Sign up to our blog now. No spam. Guaranteed.
See you in the big yonder!
Yours Traveling Old Farts
Track Notes
Distances
From Dongara / Port Denison
to Tenindewah via Mingenew - 107 km
to Nabawa (Chapman Valley) - 213 km
to Northhampton - 248 km
to Hamlin-Pools (Stromatolites) - 487 km
to Denham - 603 km
to Monkey Mia (Shark Bay) - 620 km
Useful Links
Mingenew Bakery (https://www.facebook.com/mingenewbakery/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel)
Tenindewa (https://tenindewa.com)
Chapman Valley (https://www.chapmanvalley.wa.gov.au/visit-chapman-valley/what-to-do/attractions.aspx)
Shark Bay World Heritage Discovery & Visitor Centre (https://www.sharkbayvisit.com.au)
Hamelin Pool & Stromatolites (https://www.sharkbay.org/place/hamelin-pool/)
Discover Shark Bay (https://www.sharkbay.org)
Accommodation
Tenindewa - see WikiCamps
Horrock Beach Caravan Park (https://summerstar.com.au/caravan-parks/horrocks-beach)
RAC Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort (https://parksandresorts.rac.com.au/monkey-mia/)
When to travel
In summer Shark Bay is really hot. And windy. Spring und autumn are the best times to explore the region, and autumn definitely to add swimming or snorkelling to your agenda. School holidays are bonkers and noisy and should be avoided, if possible.
If you are planning to stay mainly in holiday parks and camp grounds, consider, joining one of the many caravanning groups such as G’Day Parks, RAC, Big4 and others. The joinunng fee is minimal and savings of 10% per stay do add up. For information see https://allaroundoz.com.au/2020/12/11/caravan-park-membership/
Things that get us excited
Shoes - Reef shoes are an inexpensive way to protect yourself against scorching grounds, sharp stones, and even the deadly stone fish. They are made for water and dry quickly.
Snorkelling gear - We equipped ourselves with some really practical masks, that cover the full face. The snorkel itself is integrated. Easy to use, even with a beard and a wide field of vision. I ahne paired these with some short flippers. Suitable for swimming pools and easy to stow away on those long trips.
Breaking the wind - Life could have been so much easier with a battery powered drill. Throw in some extra long, extra strong tec screws and you will never touch the old conventional steel pegs again. Ever!
Sun protection - Slip slop slap: sun screen, sun glasses, a wide rimmed hat, and sensible, uv-rated clothes are an absolute must in this harsh environment.
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