We recovered from our last trip. All systems have been repaired and are ready to go again. Work died down a fair bit. Having said that, we are slowly getting the caravan park ready for the crazy Christmas Holiday season. And before the shit hits the fan, we are out to get another breather, the last one for this year. It’s gonna be a short one to Horrocks Beach, about 140 km north.
Driving to Horrocks from Northampton is odd. The hills are getting more pronounced. No trace of the ocean. And the moment we decide to consult the map, on the highest hill, there it is. A steep decline and a beautiful little bay.
At first sight, the township it is a bit nondescript. Cute fishing shacks, grand mansions, held together by old, dilapidated fibro huts. Did someone utter the word “asbestos”?
Having said that, there is a certain ease in the air, just have a look at the dog signs. When asked what people are here for, it’s fishing, boating, swimming, surfing, beach walking, and then it starts again. “Did I mention fishing already?” The mouth of the Bowes River is just around the corner and so are some wild camping spots up the coast. More pretty fishing spots! 😂
The Horrocks Beach General Store & Liquor is worth mentioning. Good food & coffee, nice souvenirs, some supplies. The girls who run it are lovely and equally cool are their guests. From ye ole geezer to surfer dudes with or without dogs, young mums and their toddlers to even a counsellor from Northampton holding court in the corner. We fit right in!
We set up camp at the caravan park, out of the wind. Internet is patchy, but enough to do some writing. So all good.
A day trip to Gregory takes us past the ruins of the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot. Established in 1853, it was the first of its kind north of Fremantle supplying labour to the Geraldine Lead Mine at Gwalla (now Northampton). It housed 60 ticket-of-leave convicts plus retired British soldiers as their guards.
To ease the cost of looking after prisoners, the colony allowed ticket-of-leave convicts to work. They might even build a family and purchase property, as long they “behaved”. All rights could be revoked instantly and without trial should the convict relapse or should it suit the authorities. Working in a toxic lead mine must have been on top of any prisoners favourites list. Hm!
By 1856 a store, bakery, depot, lockup, hospital, lime kiln and even an administration block had been built. However, a lack of fresh vegetables saw the population ravaged by scurvy. The depot was closed in 1857 due to its high cost to the government. Until today, it remains the most intact example of a regional convict depot in Western Australia. Great to hike the ruins, lots of beautiful vantage points!
Nearby Port Gregory was Lynton’s gateway to the world. It served as the hub to ship out lead, salt and later whaling products. Today it is a pretty derelict place. Booming during the holidays and depressing the rest of the year. In 2016 there were just over 60 residents on 85 or so dwellings, most of them unoccupied. Port Gregory comes across like a grumpy old man: always gibbering about the good old days, otherwise grumpy and miserable, yet too set in his ways to change anything.
The highlight is Hutt Lagoon, the Pink Lake. And it does not disappoint. The colours are spectacular!
We take the backroads to Northampton, a small, charming rural town on the edge of the wheat belt. It’s original name was 'The Mines' but it was changed in 1871, after Lynton was abandoned.
Northampton is noted as an Historic Town with the beautiful Church of St Mary in Ana Coeli and the Convent of the Sacred Heart, both designed by the architect-priest Monsignor John Hawes. Unfortunately, a lot of Northamptons buildings are still damaged from cyclone Seroja, ploughing through the region Easter 2021. It created havoc and damaged about 70% of all the buildings between Kalbarri and the Chapman Valley!
Northampton is still great for a short getaway. Don’t miss out on the local AFL players wall-of-fame, Hampton Gardens, Lyons Park & Playground, The Shearing Shed Café, Wren’s Place (Bakery & Café), as well as lots of arts & crafts places and OP shops. Oh, and try counting the sheep roaming the streets. Just don't fall asleep!
Track Notes
Distances
From Port Denison
To Northampton 120 km
Then to Horrocks Beach 22 km
Then to Lynton 27 km
Then to Hutt Lagoon / Pink Lake 4 km
Then to Port Gregory 4 km
Then to Northamptom (back road) 47 km
Accommodation
Horrocks Beach Caravan Park (https://summerstar.com.au/caravan-parks/horrocks-beach) 142km
Best time to travel
Summer can be very hot and windy in this part of WA's coast. For more stable weather travel visit during spring and autumn.
Links
Horrocks Beach (https://rac.com.au/travel-touring/info/horrocks)
Lynton Convict Depot (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynton,_Western_Australia)
Hutt Lagoon / Pink Lake (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hutt_Lagoon)
Gregory (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gregory,_Western_Australia)
Northampton (https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/northampton-wa)
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