As much as we love Kununurra and East Kimberley, we are looking forward to leaving WA for a taste of the raw and untamed new. And it’s only 30 minutes to the border, so let’s go!
26 Wednesday - Judburra, a killer!
Leaving our Kununurra camp at 8.30 am after a cruisy morning, cleaning up, packing and shopping. We are a tad nervous. A new game emerged in the past months, one that is hard getting used to. Like a toddler that discovered how to irritate its surrounds by opening and slamming doors shut again and again, the WA government constantly opens and closes its borders. We have lost track of the conditions under which departing and re-entering is permitted. In the end, we log our intentions with the government website and hope for the best. Turns out that crossing the border is a non-event. No check-points, no patrols, no frisk search. Strange place. Worst thing is that we nearly forgot to adjust our watches 90 minutes. Imagine rocking up too late to afternoon tea too!
First impressions of the Territory are great: highways and bridges seem to be in great nick, nice roadside stops every 50k’s or so. Everything is tidier, even the termite mounds transitioning from Fat Sloppy Lady to Skinny Dude 😄. We learn later that it’s not the termites lack of building skills or exercise that does it, but goes back different species.
It’s early arvo and I really need to stretch my legs. The Nawilbinbin Walk at the 13,000 sqkm large Judbarra / Gregory National Park does it - at 34 degrees. Rather hot, but somewhat necessary: up towards the cliffs for awesome views. The track is well maintained and signposted. Loving the stories along the way. Olli, of course, is more interested in millions of ops sniffing and peeing. He is not very cultured. Different to us: right under the overhangs, there is some pretty cool rock art, hardly weathered and not vandalised. And that despite the fact that nothing is cordoned off. It is tempting to touch. But that would be like kissing the Mona Lisa. Unfortunately, some tourists do exactly that. By the way, the man in that photo is a frog, an important spirit of the creation story. Looks human, don’t you think? Indigenous ancestors are often shape shifters, which may explain similarities.
Back at Joe Creek Car Park I sigh with relief. It gets too hot. Payback in the shape of headache and nausea. I swear, I drank a fair bit and never hike without a hat. Wonder how my two boys do it.Thankfully, the Victoria Bridge Roadhouse is close by with green lawns and fat, shady trees: cold shower, ice cream and paracetamol, here we come.
Able to do my travel diary later, then off for a short hike to the scenic bridge and the mandatory sunset photos and eventually calling it an early night.
27 Thursday - Encounters with the Bower Bird Tribe
Time of a morning walk with O. We discover some pretty cool rusty farm equipment. A nod to some of the best art I have seen on this trip (see pics).
Before heading to Katherine, we embark on the escarpment track just around the corner. The hike winds its way up on the steep cliff. Stunning! Steep drop offs. Views of the broad, lush valley. And the river. And the smells! Rising from deep chasms and gorges a hundred thousand scents caress the nose. It pays to just sit and smell. An orgiastic experience! What a great place. One really wonders, why so few people live up here.
This hike we do without the dog. He gets too excited on his lead. Especially when heading down hill. After decades of sprained ankles, I am finally able to push my feet out of their sockets. Makes for a great party trick. Quite scary when navigating slopes. Steep ones. Downhill. That’s when I don’t need the extra distraction of being jolted towards anything this dog thinks requires chasing.
As I force my legs, buttocks, body not to overtake my feet, I manage to talk to a young couple from Melbourne doing the same hike. They are dreading returning home into certain lock down. Curiously, staying here, taking up rural work, until everything blows over is not an option. Tourism and farm operations are crying out for workers. Some of them are really well paid too. And come with accommodation. And food. It’s safe from Covid. With all the freedoms in the world. And one gets to explore some of the most amazing parts of the country! I am amazed how few people take up this opportunity. Money is obviously too cheap. Give it a go, guys! We have attached some links to specialised job agencies.
Back at the roadhouse we find that the showers have been turned off. Going for a walk, having a bite to eat and packing up may have taken that tiny little bot too long. Darn!
It is a short and easy drive to Katherine. We find the van park, settle in quickly and even get to explore the town. The park is surprisingly expensive. A tad ramshackle. But it comes with free entertainment. Located right across the show grounds / race course, we enjoy free shows of verbal abuse, physical excesses included. Especially in the dark of night. Was already wondering if this could be the case when taking O for his tour-de-pee. The hood is eerily similar to some of Newman’s less desirable areas. Trashy houses. Junk yards as front gardens. Litter everywhere. I may do the locals a disservice by assuming a lower socio-economic standard. It is entirely possible that they are all of the Bowerbird tribe. We have one at the van park. The male Bowerbird weaves a clump of grasses artistically into something resembling a basket. He then adorns it with shiny objects such as bottle tops and glass shards. Heaps of them. That wows the ladies, impressed by the displayed skills and wealth. After successful mating, Dame Bower moves into a modest condo, with park views. While the self-proclaimed Don Giovanni continues his solo performance. So, who am I to judge messy yards when weeds and trash could be, in fact, artful displays to get the ladies of the neighbourhood into an amorous frenzy… 😂
28 Friday - 3,300 km - Katherine’s Blow Flies
We booked a dawn tour through Nitmiluk National Park. It is chilly. The sun’s not up yet. Flying foxes are screeching while we wrap our hands around hot mugs of instant brew. There is a slight breeze. Should have brought a jacket.
The park forms the south-western border of the Arnhem Land plateau. Tropical rains gauged out spectacular canyons. Superb for boating and swimming. Beware of crocodiles. Despite being a long way from the coast. Rock barriers normally keep man-eaters out of the gorges. With the seasons, water levels change. Rising floodwaters inundate barriers. Ever so hungry salties move upstream, in search of unsuspecting tourists. Once water levels drop again, rangers are able to locate most of the trouble makers and resettle them down stream. A carefully orchestrated program opens the waters for swimming. The elderlies test the waters first together with any troublesome youth. If they survive, the general public is allowed to go in.
The boat trip up the first gorge is spectacular. We then hike across a rock barrier before sailing deeper into the second gorge. It is so quiet and peaceful. The first rays are kissing the top of the rock walls, caressing us with the first golden hues. Can’t stop taking photos…
I am ecstatic that we went on the first tour: returning to base, the jetty is jam packed with travellers trying to squeeze onto quite a number of boats. “That’s what you get for sleeping in, bastards!” I don’t say that aloud, but the thought certainly crosses my mind.
We are impressed with Katherine’s visitor center. A young employee takes charge of us. He does not know too much about the sights going south but paints a captivating picture of all the pet friendly options at Litchfield. That’s the wrong direction! So not what we intended to do. Or did we? The longer we ponder, the more appealing is a quicky to the North. Friends, who we are supposed to meet in Alice are delayed with temporary border closures and quarantine measures due to the latest viral outbreak in Melbourne. So why not? Great sales person, I think. Should get his details for any upcoming jobs.
The famed Black Russian Caravan Bar is a surprise pop up café outside the visitor center. Like flies to poo, we are drawn in for morning tea! Not bad at all. Great crowd too!
Coffee in hand, we stroll along Stuart Highway, Katherine’s shopping mile. Paul points out that there seem to be far more bottle shops than supermarkets. And that despite really tough access codes and controls. Having a cop outside each watering hole, asking for ID, where you intend to drink and who with, is the norm. Does this alleviate the issue of alcoholism? It does not seem like. There are a lot of noisy, smelly and unruly humanoid life forms. It’s uncomfortable to wander the street. Watch out or get bumped into.
To get away, we check out some shops. Worth mentioning is Mimi Aboriginal Arts & Crafts with a beautiful variety of paintings, prints and books, owned by First Nations people. I purchase a thought provoking book called “Sandtalk” by Tyson Yunkaporta, a doctor and researcher at Deacon University in Melbourne. As an Apalech man, he muses how indigenous thinking may save the world. Not an easy read. But fascinating. So much so, that I am reading it again while writing this blog. I want to get my head around it. More about it perhaps in another write-up.
Back at camp, we itch (actually, I do) to wash off the morning in the hot springs. I briefly dropped by on last night’s dog walk. Yes, they are that close! We do not see any salties, so I suspect the waters have been checked. Long-fingers seem to be more of a concern in this neck of the city. Down a steep embankment and in we slide. Aaah! Delightful!!! I am already shedding years, despite the skin shrivelling in the balmy waters…
In the afternoon we meet Manuel & Mardee at Top Didj Cultural Experience. Manuel is an amazing inspirational speaker, storyteller, artist and singer. After giving up alcohol 12 years ago he now takes visitors gently by the hand, paints with them while taking them on his life’s journey. He introduces us to making fire and to using a woomera hunting kangaroo. He is a gentle Santa, his voice warm and soothing and his brilliant brown eyes seem to be looking right into you. And then he giggles like a kid. The children in our small group are captivated. So am I. He asks everyone what everyone had for breakfast and that he likes to eat a whopping three Weetbix and feels feels naughty about it. And then he takes us back to his childhood where breakfast preparation started the day before and if messed up, one would simply go hungry. He introduces us to his fire sticks. There have to be at least two, carefully fashioned and treasured. Not only for the obvious reason, but as memory sticks as well. A special fire stick is only used for important meetings and ceremonies. Each scorched notch is uniquely connected to a specific event. Like a photo album. Instead of photos it shows burn marks. Memories etched into timber.
None of our group is a natural in spearing a roo. I am dreading my turn. Gays are not necessarily known to excel at these kind of sports. Surprisingly, I do quite well, giving the animal at least a massive headache. And then Manuel demonstrates his skills. Our warm-hearted storyteller, transforms into a fierce hunter, crouching, zigzagging stealthily from bush to bush, making strange animal noises, pretending to be part of the mob. The roo did not see that coming and gets pinned to the ground. Phenomenal! What a great afternoon!!! I am exhausted processing everything.
29 Saturday - Leliyn Falls, where the Wild Things are
We check out Edith or Leliyn Falls, 65 km from town. It is love at first sight. But before hiking, we have to organise a camp for our dog. Backtracking, we find a quiet, private spot on a tributary of the Ferguson River. It is noon and just us! Paul is making sure that we cannot get snacked on by a stray crocodile. A recent fire cleared the ground of potential hiding spots and most of the prickles. It now creates cute little puffs of ash escaping every foot or pawn print. Great to roll in. Our dog is starting to look seriously feral. We are having a cruisy, lazy arvo and a great night sleep!
How does one find a nice spot to camp? Google and WikiCamps are great starting points. Online feedback is a great way to suss out the bad from the ordinary or just horrific. At times we just follow dirt tracks into state forests. Bridges are a great option too. They often provide really nice spots to park. Alternatively follow one or the other track along the creek. No water? No mozzies! No worries… On rare occasions, we stop right beside the highway. Not an issue on quieter Outback roads. The already sparse traffic dies down to nothing once the sun sets. For busy roads this has to be the last option - when it gets dark, and you cannot find anything at all. It pays off, to start looking for a suitable space earlier in the day. It is much nicer to set up camp, cook something and salute the outgoing day while you can still see what you are doing.
Is travelling with pooches a problem? National parks are unfortunately off limits. Finding a dog friendly commercial place to camp is a must. If you choose a free one, be mindful of poison bait used in the Outback to control the number of feral dogs. Especially if your furry friend inhales any smelly, stinky morsel he can find. A muzzle is a great option to give you peace of mind.
You are not allowed to leave your dog alone in a commercial setting. However, this depends to a great deal on your dogs temper. Ours is quiet and happy to just veg around while we explore. If the outside temperatures are too hot he will stays happily at camp, provided there is shade and enough water. Olli loves to chill under the trailer. During cooler periods or early the morning he will stay in the car. We always leave the windows ajar. Heat is a fast and vicious killer. For anxious or noisy dogs, a kennel or the local vet may be the better option. It pays off to book well in advance when heading towards popular destinations. Besides that, there are a lot of breath-taking sites to stay at which are not national parks. Ultimately, you got to prioritise: iconic venue or puppy love and sloppy kisses?
Ok, there is a downside to travelling with fur children and that is when they decide to roll in gawd-knows-what. No dog grooming palace in sight. Or warm hydro bath. Or bucket of NilOdor. The prospect of sharing tent or car is NOT APPEALING! Grab some old clothes (socks are great) or that dog grooming mitt and wash the gunk off - as good as possible. Note: discard clothes and mitt afterwards.
30 Sunday - Falls to Rocks
While Olli is securing the camp, Paul and I hike around the waterfalls: spectacular! Once more we are the only ones. It is Sunday morning and the commercial camp ground is not stirring yet. The area is great for bushwalking. The 2.6 km Leliyn Trail offers a challenging, steep, rocky loop and really nice views. My Insta-heart sings. We pass on the swim in the upper pool, half way around the trail. We don’t want to give the sole bather (isn’t there always one?) a heart attack, showing up in our birthday suits. Mind you, it is too tempting no to, and after scrambling down the opposite cliff, we end up in the main pool at the bottom of the hill. Properly dressed, that is. Tiny fishies nibble at our toes. Giggles…
Temperatures permitting, one can extend the walk to 9 km, all the way to Sweetwater Pool, another tranquil swimming hole, even further upstream. And the really keen ones can use Leliyn as the finishing point of the 62km Jatbula Trail, through Nitmiluk, starting at Katherine Gorge.
Olli is excited to have us back for breakfast and then we are off to Batchelor via Pine Creek and Adelaide River. Following the info center’s advice we book into Zebra Rock, a brand new, dog friendly camp ground. And another great stay!
The guy who owns the zebra rock lease used to live at Argyle Station before the lake swallowed it. The rock is rare and known locations are all between Batchelor and Argyle. The owner believes the curious patterns are formed in a semi viscous state - like a lava lamp - and under strong magnetic influences. Possibly when this area was located at the South Pole. We are talking when Australia was part of Pangaea! Wild theory. Fact is: no one knows for sure how the stripes ended up decorating the rocks so beautifully. As finds are so rare, the owner of Zebra Rock Park is trying these sites protected and preserved for future generations. We enjoy checking them out and touching at their museum while devouring local intel and homemade scones with rosella jam!
31 Monday - Haemorrhoids at Litchfield National Park
After Oliver was able to break through the zips of our camper trailer, he now sleeps in the car and loves it. It’s probably the nicest spot for our travelling buddy. During the warm nights the windows stay open. Backfired. Big time. Started the morning with 50,000 mozzies in the car 😟. Luckily, dog does not look or behave anaemic. I do wonder though, what he would say, could he speak… By the way, here an Aussie secret for you: apparently, if mosquito bites cause real issues, apply haemorrhoid creme! It constricts blood vessels, cools and is antiseptic. Exactly what is needed! Let me know how you go…
Talking about insects, the termite mounds at Litchfield are super impressive. Most termites are subterranean and arboreal, hardly noticeable, unless they eat your house. There are only a few above-ground species. Mostly in flood plains as they hate wet feet (or in areas where there are no timber houses). The Cathedrals must be amongst the most spectacular ones, reaching up to five meters in height. Their distinct vertical ridges keep the building cool, like cooling ribs on a refrigeration unit. Their magnetic colleagues ones only make it to 1.8 meters with flat, slender constructions all oriented North-South, out of the most intense midday sun. Like ants, once a year termites send off emerging queens. The marital flight is compared to the spawning event of the coral reef where billions of the little insects get released into the wild, all at the same time. Most of them get eaten. A really important part of the eco-system. A lot of animals are known to coordinate their life cycle with this event! Curiously, the young queen is the only one ever venturing into the big world to then being contained in a small chamber for the rest of her life, unable to move, just to pop out egg after egg. Sounds familiar? And here the magic in all of this: in the driest regions, termite mounds work like a composting plat. As there are no worms here, they play the very important roll of breaking down dead plant matter that otherwise would not find its way back into nature’s nutrient cycle!
After marvelling at mother nature’s master builders, we hike from Buley Waterholes to Florence Falls - yes! It is nice. We are again the only ones. The falls are beautiful, painting rainbows in the air, with some intimate swimming spots, spas and whirling cascades along the river. Short stop at Tolmer Falls lookout and Greenant Creek. The hiking bug bites us again at Wangi Falls. The tumbling twin waters are impressive and must be a great place to get wet. As the water is on the bottom of the Sandstone massive, recent rains have rendered it not croc safe. Not yet anyway. We make our way to the top of the falls through monsoonal rainforest. Shady spots are alive with millions of butterflies. The humidity is considerably higher amongst the trees. But it is really just contained to a narrow strip along the pond and the falls. Only a few meters away the rainforest gives way to the usual scraggly bush land. We nearly see the coast from the top of the falls. Understandable, how this place is special to the local indigenous people. On the way down we stumble across a tiny little rivulet dripping down the rock face. Great for a refreshing splash to cool off and to refill our cambro. It’s moments like these, when I see the joyous boy in Paul. They make my legs go weak. Precious moments.
The Wangi Falls Café is worth mentioning: inexpensive and great service by a young aboriginal man. Chilled afternoon!
Track Notes
From Roadhouse to Roadhouse
Kununurra
To Victoria River Roadhouse 320 km - 150.0 c/L
To Katherine 200 km - 139.7 c/L
To Adelaide River 400 km - 133.6 c/L via Nitmiluk National Park & Leliyn Falls
To Adelaide River via Litchfield National Park 200 km - 133.6 c/L
From Camp to Camp
Kununurra (Lat -15.7783 / Lng 128,7439)
To Victoria River Roadhouse (Lat -15.6172 / Lng 131.1278) 320 km
To Boab Caravan Park, Katherine (Lat -14.4520 / Lng 132.2699) 200 km
Katherine Gorge and Nitmiluk National Park (Lat - / Lng ) 100 km
To Leliyn Falls (Lat -14.10 / Lng 132.10) 90 km
To Zebra Rock Park, Batchelor (Lat -13.0470 / Lng 131.0276) 300 km
Links zu places we visited
Judbarra / Gregory National Park (https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/judbarra-gregory-national-park), Victoria River Roadhouse (via FB), Boab Caravan Park (https://boabcaravanpark.com.au/), Katherine (https://www.visitkatherine.com.au), The Black Russian Caravan Bar (via FB), Mimi Aboriginal Arts & Crafts (https://mimiarts.com), Nitmiluk National Park & Tours (https://www.nitmiluktours.com.au/about/nitmiluk-national-park), Top Didj Cultural Experience & Art Gallery (https://topdidj.com), Leliyn Falls (https://northernterritory.com/katherine-and-surrounds/see-and-do/leliyn), Zebra Rock Park (via FB), Litchfield National Park (https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/litchfield-national-park)
Cool music and reads to keep you occupied
“Still” Criminal novel by Matt Nable, sec in Darwin
Musik: Australian Country-Rock Classics from A like AC/DC, via D for Diesel, Goana, James Reyne, Jimmy Barnes, John Farnham, Mark Seymour, Mitch Tambo, Mondo Rock, Pete Murray, to T like The Church.
Things worth noting
Our overnight stays are chosen because they are dog friendly. In case of commercial caravan parks, be aware, that dogs cannot be left unaccompanied at the park at any time.
When camping off-grid, be aware that poison bait is used in most parts of the Outback to control the number of wild dogs. A dog that has ingested the deadly 1070 bait may be salvaged by inducing vomiting immediately. However, it is best to use a muzzle preventing poisoning in the first instance. Watch out on hot days. The ground quickly turns into a life threatening scorcher for pets’ paws. Note: If you won’t walk barefoot because of the heat, don’t expect your dog to do it.
The best time to visit the tropical north is during the dry season from May to August when precipitation is low, with day time temperatures in the twenties. Travel earlier and roads may still be off limits, travel later and temperatures as well as humidity will rise and make exploring testing. Cyclones are common during summer months.
Permits are not required to enter most of the parks and reserves in the Northern Territory. But even here, domestic animals are off limits. Having said that, it is permitted in some parks, to leave your dog in the shade of your vehicle in the parking lot, provided water is provided.
Little Helpers
Hema Australian Road & 4WD Atlas
WikiCamps
FuelMap Australia
GoogleMaps
And for job seekers: Seek (https://www.seek.com.au), Jora (https://au.jora.com),MLKA (http://www.mlkarecruitment.com.au), Grey Nomads (https://www.greynomadsjobs.com)
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