Stretching, 2,720 km the Stuart Highway connects Darwin with South Australian Port Augusta. It follows roughly the route used by the first European John McDouall Stuart to cross the continent in 1860/61. Although engineered started in 1940, the last piece was not sealed until 1987. Parts of the highway are emergency runways for the Royal Flying Doctor Services. So always keep an eye on the skies.
Mataranka and the not so Bitter Springs
We start in Batchelor. 85 km south of Darwin we turn onto the Stuart Highway. The good-smelling Tortilla Flats, and the small villages of Adelaide River and Pine Creek we pass quickly. And after a brief fuel stop in Katherine, we end up in Mataranka.
The Mataranka Hot Springs are part of the Elsey National Park and absolutely fantastic! Floating down the springs is like swimming down Eli Creek on Fraser Island - unfortunately equally as populated - but much warmer... It's incredible to see the light dancing over the water. And the mild air. Allegedly there are crocodiles in the Roper River, just around the corner. And all this in the middle of the outback!
Mataranka and Daly Waters - Outback Adventure Playground
Remember the early bird and the worm? According to our motto, we aiming for an early start, trying to beat the crowds. I am armed with my snorkelling gear ready to see some elusive freshwater turtles. Unfortunately, we are neither the first, not the only ones. It is still nice though, sliding down the creek as the first rays illuminate logs and underwater plant. Serene. The subsurface world is spectacular, the colours worth painting. Following our stories, one knows that I am at odds with breathing under water. I still sound like a mix of fish on dry land, gulping for air and Darth Vader. I have to meditate to get this one right. While swimming. No wonder most critters are stunned when I float by, rather than taking off in a panic. No turtles by the way. We earned ourselves a good hearty home cooked breakfast.
Then Daly Waters Pub, a theme park with everything so typical for the Outback. The pub is flogging all the clichés. There is an old wonky building with its oversize awning, the court yard with the country music stage, the old bar, millions of hats, bras and shoes hanging off the rafters. Icey cold drinks, a shady camping spot close by, a second outdoor bar, shit loads of tables and a dance floor made of compacted dirt. Awesome. I am having a hard time persuading Paul to stay for a night under the stars, filled with music and booze. But the number of people already here startles him. At least I get a cider, breathe some genuine dust, while taking in the vibes and feeling myself into the sweat of thousand of butts that polished this timber bench before us
We are having a good look at the museum across the road with its vintage cars and motor bikes. There is a replica of the cycle used in the movie “The worlds fasted Indian” with Anthony Hopkins. The cop car on display is apparently the from movie “Wolf Creek” . I am laughing hysterically imagining the German Chancellor on the old rusty “Flying Merkel”, an pushbike that has seen better days. What a hoot!
The EH Holden is the one that Paul learnt to drive in. He mentions family getaways with the brood of five on the back seat, two of them perching on the edge of the seat, the other three leaning backwards. And every hour or so they would swap positions. Paul, being the youngest, used to sit in the footwell between mum’s legs.
Stopping just 15 k’s south of Renner Springs. It is a gazetted gravel pit, and turns out to be an old cattle yard (or a homestead?) with some really cool views! This is the first taste of semi arid conditions since entering the NT. Reminds me of our home of 15 months in the Pilbara - including the flies 😆. I am braving the onslaught and take Master O for a long walk on one of the station tracks. Got chased into bed early by millions of grass hoppers throwing themselves into our lights, eeew!
Slaughter on the Highway
T’is the first windy winter morning and rather cold. We “check out” early, the sun is just starting to rise. Not even time for a coffee.
Stopping at a really busy rest stop which was recommended by WikiCamps. So many vehicles. The toilet is ok. We use the break to set up our first brew for the day. And take our time to look around. Amazing to see how different ramping riggs behave in the wind. Deciding on a camper van, trailer or roof top is always a compromise between cost, comfort and flexibility. Having said that, the difference these days are rather minute. Throw in a decent breeze and this is all of a sudden a different game. Packing up is an art form and already challenging in calm conditions. Windswept rooftop tents are just spectacular. Surprised that not more tourists get killed. - well, at least none that we are aware of. Our personal favourite so far has been the forward folding camper. Even considered buying one. The tent part turns into a billowing sail, ready to take off. The challenge is to fold the sail in while lifting the hard floor back over it without loosing a hand, an arms or your loved one. A bit like a DIY Ikea kitchen. The frustration on the other side of the car park is palpable. Just waiting for either the faulty struts or the totally frustrated owner snuffing his partner.
Difficult to let go of the drama. So we are heading off to Tennant Creek. The town’s nicest feature is the mountain range when entering from the north. And the town itself? Not sure what I was expecting, perhaps something with the charm of a Wild West movie. Instead we find another run down place with more bottle shops than supermarkets. And another place not worth mentioning.
Just north of the Creek is Kunjarra or The Pebbles, a women’s secret site. According to legend, it was sung into being by small hairy women and children… Wallabies perhaps? Via song lines it is connected to Karlu Karlu (Devil’s Marbles), south of Tennant Creek.
Karlu Karlu National Park? WOW! Such an amazing and spiritual place. The day use area is close to the highway. Super-easily accessible. They even provide free camps - but not for four legged people. We abandon our truck and stroll through the fast broad valley dotted with its famous granite boulders. Every corner reveals a new, exciting view. Some formations look like pancake stacks, others like bread dough. The most famous ones are the stacked, gravity defying round boulders. Some of which have been split by an otherworldly iron fist. The forces must have been brutal, stunning, physical. Makes sense that Karlu Karlu is a men’s site, secret to our indigenous brothers and sisters. Thanks, for allowing us access. I want to conjure the power, breathing, barefoot walking and didge playing. Oh yess! And then there is Paul: "Bigger is better” he remarks, comparing it to Kunjarra. Dry as a fart, that man!
Got the giggles at Wycliffe Well Roadhouse, self-appointed UFO center of Australia. Aliens adorn the walls and the nearby park! Even a life size Elvis (confirms that he was not fof this planet!). Besides that there are a lot of newspaper clippings regarding alien sightings which apparently have been quite common here. Different to Daly Waters the theme does not roll through. It is a painted roadhouse, run by head waggling Indians. And that’s where it stops. Still funny though…
The next camp is at Barrow Creek, a WWII site. Another one, I think. There are so many of them along the Stuart Highway. The Aussies are absolutely bonkers regarding anything Word War II. The former base is lovely, spacious and located not far from the creek - now dry, of course. No smelly toilets and far enough away from the road to imagine being in the middle of nowhere, all by yourself…
And remember the thing about dogs and dirt? That brown stuff just reeks!
Winter is coming, even for tough bushies
Heading south, it is getting noticeably colder. We refuel at Ti Tree and then say Hi to the Big Anmatjere Man of Aileron. He was built in 2005, modelled on a spider man figure, the artist saw at K-Mart. He is impressive standing starkers on the hill, overlooking his country. The local people feared the sharp eastern winds would be bad for the figure’s unprotected manhood, so a laplap was added. And then, in a creative frenzy, the artist extended the work by a tribute to aboriginal women with an equally tall mother and her girl. It’s a refreshing alternative to statues of millions of explorers, conquerors and politicians that are mostly dotting the landscape. The community of Aileron embraced the project wholeheartedly hoping it would give travellers a reason to stop - and they do - but with nowhere to go and browse or having a cuppa, the rest is brief. The only café / art gallery is closed.
We arrive to Alice Springs short time later. The hills leading up to the city are impressive, I am seriously curious about the town itself. I have heard lots of colourful stories about it from the late 1990’s. Some of them quite frightening.
Surprisingly, Alice is neat and tidy and quite modern. Barred windows and fences have been replaced with inviting architecture, graffiti's with murals, run down bunkers with a modern center, a nice mall, galleries, pubs, cafés, parks. The Todd River hugs the city lovingly, trash and dead bodies being a thing of the past. There is a seriously positive vibe about and a great mix of old and new. We hike up the Botanical Garden to an inviting view of the town and enjoy a coffee in the sun. Shopping is great with most of the mod cons of a big smoke.
The Heritage Caravan Park, south of The Gap, is not nice, but user-friendly. With the famous Finke River Desert Race upon us, accommodation is sparse. Might as well make ourselves comfortable between bikers, quad and other multi terrain fanatics. Paul sets up the fire and we are ready to get toasty. After 7pm our Victorian friends rock up - a whole day early! Great Hurrahs! A quick mulled wine turns into a night of chats and drinks! This get-together was planned quite some time ago, but the latest Covid outbreak seriously. upset the travel plans. Up until two days ago an opening of the border to Queensland was still in limbo. And when it finally happened, a whole caravan started rolling towards Alice. And that despite a pretty lousy Plenty Highway. Fuel prices must have been horrific and camping opportunities mediocre to say the least, so out friends decided to push on and arrive a day early, tired, but happy.
We baptise the new day with pan cake stacks. Some more walking, exploring, shopping and much more catching up, as you do after close to two years. In the evening Paul’s sis drops by with her partner. We catch up over a rustic camp oven dinner. For her it was only a 1,000 km detour. Jolly good to see them!
Track Notes
From Roadhouse to Roadhouse
Batchelor
To Katherine 205 km - 139.7 c/L
To Daly Waters 291 km - 157.9 c/L
To Tennant Creek 400 km - 153.9 c/L
To Ti Tree 360 km - 179.0 c/L
To Alice Springs 238 km - 146.9 c/L
From Camp to Camp
Zebra Rock Park, Batchelor (Lat -13.0470 / Lng 131.0276)
To Bitter Springs Caravan Park, Mataranka (Lat -14.9230 / Lng 133.0667) 260 km
To Renner Springs (Lat -18.3183 / Lng 133.7947) 440 km
To Barrow Creek (Lat -21.3799 / Lng 133.9756) 380 km
To Heritage Caravan Park, Alice Springs (Lat -23.7365 / Lng 133.8701) 345 km
Links worth noting
Bitter Springs Cabins & Camping (https://www.bitterspringscabins.com.au), Mataranka (https://northernterritory.com/katherine-and-surrounds/destinations/mataranka-thermal-pool), Daly Waters Pub (http://dalywaterspub.com), Kunjarra National Park (https://northernterritory.com/tennant-creek-and-barkly-region/see-and-do/kunjarrathe-pebbles), Karlu Karlu National Park (https://nt.gov.au/leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park/find-a-park-to-visit/karlu-karlu-devils-marbles-conservation-reserve), Wycliffe Well Roadhouse & Holiday Park (https://wycliffewellholidaypark.com), Aileron (https://northernterritory.com/alice-springs-and-surrounds/destinations/aileron), Heritage Caravan Park (https://heritagecaravanpark.com.au), Alice Springs (https://northernterritory.com/alice-springs-and-surrounds/destinations/alice-springs), Finke River Desert Race (https://finkedesertrace.com.au)
Cool music and reads to keep you occupie “We of the Never-Never” novel by Jeannie Gunn
"In the Middle of Nowhere" autobiography by Terry Underwood
Things worth noting
Our overnight stays are chosen because they are dog friendly. In case of commercial caravan parks, be aware, that dogs cannot be left unaccompanied at the park at any time.
When camping off-grid, be aware that poison bait is used in most parts of the Outback to control the number of wild dogs. A dog that has ingested the deadly 1070 bait may be salvaged by inducing vomiting immediately. However, it is best to use a muzzle to prevent poisoning in the first instance.
The best time to visit the red center is Australia’s winter. Days can be in their low twenties. Expect frost as soon as the sun sets. If hiring is your thing, prepare for some early starts during autumn and spring. Walking trails get closed off at temperatures beyond 30 degrees.
Permits are not required for most parks and reserves in the Northern Territory. Despite this, domestic animals are off limits. Some parks though allow to have the dog in the car park while exploring the region. Always leave sufficient water.
Handy Helpers
Hema Australian Road & 4WD Atlas
WikiCamps
FuelMap Australia
GoogleMaps
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