After eleven weeks in Port Denison we are on the road again for a longer getaway. The beauty of our current work arrangement is, that we get to enjoy eight days off after twenty days in the office.
We got to get away from the wind and this year’s never ending winter. Since we drove through Tennant Creek beginning of July, the weather has been testing. Too cold for camping anyway. To be fair, it is now mid November and the past seven days have been pleasant. The wind on the other hand is relentless. From October/November the center of this state works like a giant solar pump. The deserts heats up during the day. From about noon the updraft is that ferocious, it sucks cool air from the coast. And anyone living there gets sand-blasted. The mornings are pleasant, the afternoons ridiculous. The wind dies down over night just to repeat itself the next day. In late summer, when ocean temperatures have finally caught up, it eases off. So, we have been told.
We are keen to follow the wind to its source, hoping to get to inland Mt Augustus before the temps there become unbearable.
De Grey Stock Route
The drive is uneventful. North of Mullewa we swap the grey top for dirt. Nicely graded, with the occasional stretch of bitumen. Right now, a lot of money is flowing into this shortcut from nowhere to nowhere. A century ago it was known as the De Grey Stock Route. Cattle and sheep would be driven 1,500km from the De Grey and Ashburton Rivers in the Pilbara region to the train in Mullewa to eventually hit the southern stock markets.
Dotted along the way is a chain of natural water holes such as Cooline and Bilong Pools and a number of hand dug wells. Crucial for the survival of men and beasts.
In the particularly fat year of 1934, 137,000 sheep made their way down the route, together with 2,666 heads of cattle. The next year was hard and only a few thousand sheep headed south.
Painting the Town Red
After months on the road and stock delivered safely, drovers would get drunk in Mullewa and “paint the town red”. Things have not changed. Still nothing beats a coldy or a stiff drink after a day of dust and corrugation. Stock have of course been replaced with caravans, horses with 4WDs and the average age of men on the road increased by about fifty years!
The waterholes along the Greenough, Murchison, Gascoyne and Lyon Rivers are spectacular. Teeming with wild life. The traffic on the other hand is negligible. After a crazy few weeks working tourists in our caravan park, this solitude is sheer bliss.
Bilung Pool
We arrive at our first overnight stop in the early afternoon. It’s a green oasis in a land that is drying up. Taking an extended hike around Bilong Pool, enjoying nature. I so want to dive into the mysterious wet - it’s looks so tempting - but that’ll wait till tomorrow.
It is dinner time and then counting stars with my boys.
The soil is rock hard which makes it impossible to drive pegs into the ground. Could be a messy night in the stiff breeze. We decide to turn the car into the wind. This opens our camper neatly without the need to secure the vulnerable back end. As long as the wind does not change direction we should be fine.
It is dinner time and then counting stars with the boys.
It is a glorious morning. Brewing the first coffee. There is chatter in the air. Groups of budgies flying in from all directions. First in their tens, soon in their hundreds and then in their thousands. Painting the air black! They form flying bubbles like the stuff in lava lamps. As more converge, the bubbles connect to streamers darkening the morning sky in crazy patterns.
Waves of tiny, living things. Every now and then they settle in the acacias above the pool for a drink. Just to take off again. All at once. Creating this roar. Like crashing ocean waves.
A hawk flies in lazily, creating another uproar. Budgies don’t seem to be too fussed about people. But a flying killing machine makes them seriously nervous. I am settling on a rock nearby, taking in this spectacle. It’s truly wonderous. Easily forgetting time. Ending up sizzled like a sausage. Burnt to a crisp! I attached a video of the commotion.
What’s good for budgies can’t be bad for us. I have to go for a dip. Nothing beats floating in a cool, natural pool on a hot day in the Outback! Together with the birds the other couple has left and we are alone again.
Mt Augustus
250 k’s more dirt road and we arrive at Mt Augustus Tourist Park. What a neat place: green lawn, shady trees, soft grounds (great for securing our awning - after all, we are chasing the source of the wind!). It’s a massive place and besides us only one more couple.
Mt Augustus is the wolds largest single rock. About twice the size of Uluru. The central ridge is about 8 km long and lifts to 1,106m above sea level. Different to The Rock, it is embedded in the alluvial plains created by the Lyons River. Together with a number of other ranges. Overlaying old sedimentary stone has weathered away, exposing the underlying granite mostly in the northwest. Which means the bottom is not that well defined. And it is coated in shrubs, pulled up like a blanket from the surrounding country side.
Blood Rituals
That’s actually a very fitting image! Burringurrah, it’s Wajarri name, used to be a boy, trying to escape the pain and trauma inflicted by his initiation. This part of growing up is crucial in aboriginal culture. It signifies the coming of age. Important survival skills are shared that ultimately sustain the survival of the tribe. Not wanting to grow up, scooping initiation, is not an option. Ultimately, the boy was hunted down and speared. As he tried to crawl away, he got clubbed and finally died. Burringurrah can still be seen. Laying on his stomach. With the broken off spear protruding from this thigh. His ribs can be seen in the afternoon sun. And an odd shaped neck, where he would have received his final blow. The greenery, a shroud, covering the body.
Maybe the old ones got it right. Wrapping knowledge in ceremony and pain is a spectacular welcome into the adult world. I understand, this is occasionally still happening, but voluntarily. Mostly with grown-ups who want to reconnect with their tribe and culture. Through stories, song, dance, and blood rituals.
That first job, the first car, the first tattoo: modern echoes of what it means to be accepted into adulthood. Or not? And the there are these self imposed rituals of getting drunk after the last day of school, partying hard, getting laid and eventually ending up in ICU. Can you sense me cringing???
Exploring the rock
Being past 37 degrees somewhat limits our ability to explore the Wajarri sites. We drive the loop around the mountain, check out the little nooks at Coolinee Pool, the Pound, Beedoboondu and Gum Grove. We take in the signs and marvel at the exquisite petroglyphs at Mumdee and Oramboo. Then we head back home with the best intensions of hiking up Oramboo at the crack of dawn.
The rest of the day melts away at camp. Cold showers and ice cream sweetening the afternoon heat. And another spectacular Outback sunset. That, they do here so well!😊
There is a time of sheer bliss. When the horizon starts to glow. The first coffee is brewing. And the Corellas are out parading. Too close for my liking. There is something military about them. As they perfectly circle. And finally land on their patch of green. Foraging for seeds. Or whatever is edible. The budgies are cute. The corellas are just loud. And annoying. After another morning of waking up to their nasal screeching, I understand that some people prefer them in their stews rather than marveling at their congregations.
Once the sun is up properly, the camp finally quietens.
Not sure how it happens, but yesterday’s best intensions have been replaced with cold showers and a hearty breakfast. At the nearby camp kitchen. Under the watchful eye of dog, magpie and noisy minor (which, compared to aforementioned corellas is not noisy at all). The whole setup is pretty grotty. I wonder when this area was last cleaned properly 🤢 Never mind, we can do it. With bird and dog finally cleaning up the crumbs.
Off to Yalaweerie Hill lookout to take in the whole of the mountain. It looks like we are standing on a ridge of shale turned vertical. Interesting structures, right underneath our soles.
The fun of Off-road Travel
As it is shaping up to be another scorcher of a day, packing up is what we do. The road takes us west towards Cobra Station and Dairy Creek. It follows the famed 800km long Kingsford-Smith Mail Run from Carnarvon to Meekatharra - the longest one of its kind. KS is known for pioneering Australia’s budding aviation industry. To finance his passion and the first flight from Australia to Britain, he distributed mail inland in an old truck. The route has not changed. The road surface is, thankfully, is in the process of upgrading.
Having said that, this particular stretch is as challenging as it is scenic. Contour hugging. Every dip and crest pronounced. With spectacular forces imposed onto unsuspecting travelers. We get away with an almighty crack, shattering our back windscreen. And a plug, smashed to bits, taking out the all the backlights of our trailer. All part of the fun! And pretty benign considering what-else can happen when traveling remote.
Neale McLean is keeping us entertained with stories of his time at Birdsville's One-Man Police Station. For whatever reason German tourists often seem to be at the heart of trouble. Ouch! I hope, I am a bit more seasoned these days. Some things are just too obvious. Like never travelling on a road that has been closed. Should you run into trouble, stay with your car, your shelter and the source of food and water. Plus the car is easier to be spotted from above should a rescue be required.
A satellite phone is great, an EPERB nearly a must for remote travels. It releases a signal that will be picked up by satellites, together with your GPS coordinates. This then alerts the authorities in Canberra, sending out a rescue team, most often the local copper.
So is checking in and out with authorities before entering a route that is off-grid.
Stocking enough fuel, food and water goes without saying.
Enough spare tires
Check your rescue gear such as a long handled shovel and track pads. They already go a long way in keeping you out of trouble.
Familiarise yourself with when to use 4WD, low range gear, engage your diff locks, adjust your tyre pressure.
Familiarise yourself with basic recovery techniques.
The amount of callouts and the preparation and money that goes into a rescue in the outback is staggering. To make it easier for helpers, the above is paramount. Thanks, Neale, for spelling this out!
By time we hit Gascoyne Junction, we have done about 900 kilometres of gravel. That’s a new record! It’s been a long day as we finally settle at Carnarvon for the night.
The Charme of Civilisation
The night was interrupted by yelling and shouting, probably from the nearby servo. Half asleep, I tried to will them on. Not impressed with people taking their domestic disputes onto the streets.
But all in all it was pleasant. Light breeze. Really good temperatures. Restful night.
It is funny how Paul and I prefer nature to the rigidity, the light and the noise of a caravan park. Yet there is something comforting about a commercial set up with toilets and hot showers. And a laundry. I miscalculated how many tops and bottoms I should take. Camping Outback is providing dust in copious amounts. It gets everywhere. And dark clothes look particularly gritty after a day setting up or taking down camp.
Spending the morning at the Gascoyne Bakery Café. Another comfort stop. Driving though town is a charming echo of our visit a year ago. I like this place. It’s pretty laid back. Mostly farming, some tourism. One is trying hard.
Most of the day we are spending on the Highway to Geraldton. We have got a rendezvous with a new back window, curtesy of RAC. Then, at the Overlander Roadhouse I notice a nail in one of the back tires. Did I mention that we crashed the drone at Bilong Pool? The camera needs attention too. This trip seems cursed.
I am on edge when we pull in at another caravan park. Letting Paul chase a replacement tyre. While I am happy to set up the camper. It’s therapeutic. Somewhat.
Employing the service of Agnes & the Minions for a bed time story. These stories never lead to anything but dull your senses until you drift off into Morpheus arms. Perfect! (I had to add this here, just because I can).
Geraldton
Heading refreshed into a new day. I am leaving Paul to his appointment with the window fitters, doing boy-talk, while O and I explore Gero’s foreshore. Interesting mix of people. A lot of dog walkers. Olli is my wild card. Ever noticed how easy it is to start conversations over your best companion? Ok, it does help, when he is cute. And friendly. A tail wag at the right moment goes a long way. Us humans could learn from this 😛
But I really like this place. Gero is wiggling itself into my heart! Just added Kai Lanai’s Café to my favorites list. It’s another container shop, right on the beach. Besides the legendary Jaffle Shack and the Rubic Cubes public amenities.
Being on a history trip, dog and I check out the first purpose built hospital, cum prison, cum nursing home. It is now home to a variety of social services. And a lovely landmark of a time gone by. It was the first educational center for nurses in Australia as well.
Back to Port Denison
Decided to stay another night, but got advised that our site was already booked and locked in for some regulars. Damn! So we pack up, do some shopping to keep us afloat for the next three weeks and head home.
Wrapping up the trip, we have a day to get everything back in order. There is something deeply therapeutic in clearing the trailer, cleaning the car or watching the clothes having fun in the washing machine...
Track Notes
Roadhouse to Roadhouse
Port Denison
To Murchison Road House 350km, $1.70 per Liter
Then to Mt Augustus Tourist Park 400km, $1.98 per Liter
Then to Gascoyne Junction 350km, $1.79 per Liter
Then to Overlander Roadhouse 130km, $1.72 per liter
Then to Geraldton 280km, $1.66 per liter
Overnight Stop to Overnight Stop
Port Denison
to Bilong (Birlungardi) Pool, Lat -25.706004 / Lng 115.985312 - 495km
to Mt Augustus Tourist Park, Lat -24.308608 / Lng 116.909112 - 230km
Then Burringurrah Loop 50km
to Big4 Plantation Caravan Park, Carnarvon, Lat -24.862323 / Lng 113.700164 - 300km
to Belair Gardens Caravan Park, Geraldton, Lat -28.778643 / Lng 114.582866 - 470km
to Port Denison - 60km
Traveling Remote
High clearance 4WD's are a must to deal with some pretty bad wash-outs.
Check what services are covered by your car insurance. Roadside Assist may not be available and having your vehicle towed to the next mechanic alone can easily break your bank.
Consider an EPERB for remote rescues.
Carry enough water. Make sure all systems are working so you can get to it too, when required.
Best time to travel
Best time to travel the WA's Outback and is April to October.
Coastal regions of the mid west are pleasant all year round. If you don’t like ferocious winds be mindful of the months of October to March.
Links
Murchison Shire Tourist Information (https://www.murchison.wa.gov.au/places-of-interest.aspx), De Grey Stock Route / Wool Wagon Pathway (https://www.outbackpathways.com/outback-pathways/wool-wagon/), Mt Augustus National Park (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Augustus_(Western_Australia)), Mt Augustus Tourist Park (http://www.mtaugustustouristpark.com), Kingsford Smith Mail Run (https://trailswa.com.au/trails/kingsford-smith-mail-run/about), Gascoyne Junction Destination Info (https://www.westernaustralia.com/en/destination/gascoyne-junction/56b266b9aeeeaaf773cf9573), BIG4 Plantation Caravan Park (https://www.big4.com.au/caravan-parks/wa/coral-coast/plantation-caravan-park?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=13728644130&cq_con=123739462265&cq_term=big4%20plantation%20caravan%20park&cq_med=&cq_plac=&cq_net=g&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8uOWBhDXARIsAOxKJ2FaRYKeSms6MrSQBIlvz9-nxt2TKcFmqoq8kUgtOx57oKACgc_Wq6AaApiTEALw_wcB), Carnarvon Tourist Information (https://www.carnarvon.org.au/visitor-info/carnarvon), Geraldton Tourist Information (https://www.visitgeraldton.com.au), Kai Lani Café and Jaffle Shack via Facebook, Belair Gardens Caravan Park (https://summerstar.com.au/caravan-parks/belair-gardens-geraldto)
Good Listens & Reads
"Outback Cop" Neale McShane's biography by Evan McHugh
Hey guys this is so interesting ! Thankyou. I’m intrigued , do you have a Cub Camper trailer now rather than your other more caravan like one? just we have a relatively new Cub 4 wheel five version and an Isuzu and our Labradoodle ! looking to do a similar thing at some stage. living your ‘trip record ‘ . cheers Susan